Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
